Review: Estiatorio Milos, The Cosmopolitan Hotel

Our suite at the Cosmopolitan Hotel had one of the best views I’ve ever had …. from a bed.  A peek out of the window revealed fountains and the Eiffel Tower, but I was thousands of miles from Paris.  The rooms are large, modern and have floor-to-ceiling windows that offer unparalleled views.  I feel compelled to write more about the hotel in another post, so keep your eyes peeled if Las Vegas is of interest.

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Vegas is an embarrassment of riches, and you can visit the ‘world’ in a day.  From Egypt to Venice with a little Paris in between, this desert destination has to be seen to be believed.

The Cosmopolitan boasts three swimming pools (one an ice rink when we visit in December), 17 food and drink outlets, nightclubs and of course, the all-important gaming tables.  They have a performance arena, a spa and hammam, a wedding chapel and a crystal chandelier that lights three stories.

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Restaurant obsessives will absolutely love Las Vegas and the Hotels here all have ‘signature’ dining.  We had lunch in the Cosmopolitan’s Estiatorio Milos restaurant, the brainchild of Chef and Restaurateur Costas Spiladis, who opened his first in Canada in 1979, he now has seven.

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The food centres around their plentiful stock of fresh fish cooked very simply.  Greek cheese, yoghurt and produce from small farmers all feature on this menu which is full of fabulous ingredients.

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”My Sister’s Olive Oil,’ blends pine-scented oil by mixing extra virgin olive oil from the estate of Costa’s sister, Vivi Manolakos, in Olympia, Greece, with oil from northern Greece.

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Classic dishes include grilled Mediterranean octopus, lightly fried fresh calamari and one of the best tzatziki & Kefalograviera cheese dishes I’ve ever tasted outside of Greece.

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As the temperature is on the cold side, the terrace is closed.

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This area alone seats up to 75 people and the views, well they’re pretty special.  The restaurant has a busy lunch service on the go, and some guests are eating at the seated bar as the main tables are working at full capacity.

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We pick from a lunch menu that is great value ($29.15) for three courses, provided you don’t veer off into the supplementary territory.  There are also sunset and moonlight menus on offer, operating at certain times.

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To begin, Mr and I share a couple of Milos’ signature dishes.  ‘The Special’  ($32) is lightly fried zucchini (courgette) and eggplant (aubergine) with tzatziki and Kefalograviera cheese.  A tower of lightly coated tempura-fried vegetables is supported by a fork which when ‘wiggled’ reveals the most delicious thick yogurt studded with cucumber.  Hot sticks of the Kefalograviera PDO cheese, which is a cross between Kefalotyri and Graviera cheeses, had been deep-fried and were nutty, salty and comforting.

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The fried calamari ($29) is deep-fried in a spiced batter, simply garnished with lemon and a sprig of parsley.  Heaven.

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On to the main menu and we share a plate of grilled octopus.  Sashimi-quality octopus is charcoal-broiled and drizzled with an olive oil, red onion and a lemon dressing.  This is a stunner.  Again, proving that brilliant ingredients treated with respect result in a plate of summer even when it’s winter outside.

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The main courses include Dorade Royale, Organic Salmon from the Shetland Isles, lamb chops and a classic Shrimp Saganaki.

Mr had the Grain Fed Chicken Breast Skewer with grilled mushrooms and onions and served over a chargrilled pita.  No complaints.  No bulk pre-cut chips either, these were hand cut like you’d get in any Greek taverna.

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I had the Nova Scotia Deep Sea Lobster Pasta a linguine dish bathed in a light tomato sauce.  The food looked fabulous, but there was no real depth of flavour and despite a search for some chunks of tail meat, there weren’t many.

Lobster Pasta, The Cosmopolitan Hotel, Las Vegas

Probably best to opt for the simple grilled fish on which this restaurant prides itself.

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We couldn’t manage the dessert on the set menu, but expect fresh Greek yoghurt, fresh fruits and Karidopita a speciality walnut cake served with kaimaki (mastic) ice cream.   In Greek cooking mastic is known as the ‘tears of Chios’, so-called because it’s sap from a tree native to the island and produces droplets or tears.  It’s dried and then offers up a pine or cedar aroma and flavour.

Service was attentive, bearing in mind just how busy it.  Lunch for two, including tip and two alcoholic drinks, was $200.

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I would go back to Milos just to gorge on the calamari and that’s a very real possibility.  A branch has recently opened in St James in London so I don’t have too far to travel from home to get my Milos fix.

If you’re in Vegas, this restaurant is definitely worth a visit.   Fresh fish after too many carbs, something of an inevitability in America, is a welcome relief.

Estiatorio Milos is open seven days a week.

I had a $150 credit, given to me by the Hotel.

The Cosmopolitan Hotel, 3708 S Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, Nevada